Dark, bitter truth: Mridula Ramesh pours beans on coffee


About a thousand years ago, in the mountains of Ethiopia, a pastoral boy named Kaldi saw his goats acting amazing. The next day, he followed and saw them eating red berries that grow in a short tree with wax, dark green leaves, protected by the tropical forests.

The coffee-wet will dry in the sun after harvest. (Shutterstock)
The coffee-wet will dry in the sun after harvest. (Shutterstock)

He thwarted the berries and jumped it into his mouth. His miserable flesh was sweet, gripping the seeds of the twins. He also bit them and considered them solid and bitter, but for 15 minutes he had spring and jumped with his goats.

This is a fairy tale about the origin of coffee, told in the Caffe region. The berry has spread from these cool and humid bills around the world, but this is a climate that is still suitable for coffee.

Then, as the spread of the word of this beans and its consequences, the priests began to chew it to help them sleep through long rituals. It took hundreds of years, journalist Mark Pendergrates writes unusual features in his book (1999) to make the coffee beans fried and brew.

Then the plantations appeared in Yemen, and the port -soak became the center of global exports. Later, the Ottoman Empire inherited and strengthened this monopoly.

Venetian traders then popularized moonshine in Europe, but they still hoped for the supply of fried beans from Arabic traders who tightly guarded live plants. Until the 17th century, coffee houses spread rapidly across Europe, with England, in particular, London and Oxford, which become known for their live “a penny”, where people from all social origin were engaged in live discussion, joint discussion of news and intellectual discussion.

Unlike the tavern, these places promoted ideas and served as a platform for reproduction for the thought of the Enlightenment. Several large British institutions appeared in cafes: Lloida’s insurance company began at Edward Lloida’s cafe; The London Stock Exchange grew from trading made at a cafe called Jonathan. Members of the Royal Society often met in cafes. The cafe catalized the intellectual transformation of the UK.

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In tropical forests such as Amazon, incomprehensible spots are aligned to make room for profitable plantations. (Shutterstock)
In tropical forests such as Amazon, incomprehensible spots are aligned to make room for profitable plantations. (Shutterstock)

Caffeine was at the heart of this. It is structurally similar to adenosine, a natural neurochemical, which grows in the brain throughout the day and signals by the evening, which is time to rest the body.

Caffeine resembles adenosine enough to bind to its receptors in the brain, but unlike adenosine, it does not activate them. These receptors in activation, promote calm and sleep and regulate mood and motivation. Occupying these receptors, without running them, caffeine blocks the soothing effect of adenosine, which leads to increased neuronal activity and increased dopamine tract. The absorption of caffeine makes you feel less sleepy, more vigilant, improves reflexes and makes another tense. In short, it made people more hard -working.

As the demand grows, Europe’s traders began to ask ourselves: can we grow this bean? The Dutch were the first to violate the Arabic monopoly, acquiring live coffee plants – historical accounts differ in whether it was through smuggling or gift – and their cultivation first in Ceylon (Sri Lanka), and then in Java (Indonesia) in the 17th century. Then the French received a plant from the Dutch Botanical Garden in Amsterdam, which they successfully grown on Reunion Island and then on the Caribbean.

By the way, another fairy tale of the origin states that Baba Budan, Sufi Holy 17th Century, controls seven seeds in India, hidden in the beard to create the first coffee plantation in Karnatak.

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Growing this crop is a time -consuming and time consuming, requiring several steps that should be done with accuracy. For the first time, the seeds should be selected and raised in seedlings. They should be transplanted and strive (with regular weeding, pruning, pests and diseases and watering). The cherry crops should be selected manually, often selectively and in several stages, because they have time unevenly. After harvesting, the cherry should be processed, dried, shocked, sorted, evaluated and fry, every step that includes at least a certain degree of skilled handmade.

In the plants of the coffee, which I recently visited Tamil Nadu, the crop coincides with winter rains, and the manager must make workers to stand in the letter, walking leeches to choose cherries. Salaries exceed 1000 a day, with bonuses for performance, but still the owner of the plantation shaker said that work is not easy.

By the way, in one of the most expensive coffee in the world, a copy of Luku, most of this process is converted into Asian cats -palm flowers that eat and convey legumes, their gastric enzymes enhance the aroma. Someone still has to collect the skate, extract beans, clean, dry and fry them.

Back in the 17th century, the need for all this work was pushed by the Coffece’s Cruellest Avatar: given the crop production, which is grown on the plantation, included in the felling of forests and slavery. And it was harsh. Haiti provided almost half of the world’s coffee in 1788, but in the conditions so inhuman that the life expectancy of the slave was 21 years.

Then the coffee began to eat in the tropical forests of Brazil.

The story says that the seeds entered Brazil, then the Portuguese colony hidden in the bouquet given by the Governor of French Guiana, her lover of the Portuguese language. After the country was freed from the Portuguese government in 1822, coffee plantations quickly grew, clearing huge, almost incomprehensible in the process.

In his book from Brodax and Firebrand (1997), the ecological historian Warren Dean describes how the crew of the loggers rose to the slope, cutting the trees without cutting them down until the foreman broke the “Master”. Its fall would cause, like a domino, the whole slope of wood to fall into a “huge explosion”.

Later, the fallen trees were burning, leaving the land similar to the battlefield, “blackened, smoldering and empty.” The ashes, writes Pendergrar, provided an incentive for coffee seedlings, and when the soil is tired, the plantation owner moved on and burned a fresh area of the forest. The irony destruction of the forest to plant a shadow that loves the crop on farmers.

Large fencing of the Atlantic Forest in Brazil, especially on the hills of the slopes, were also cleaned to meet high world demand. Brazil has become and remains the leader in the world, but at the expense that should now be for all of us.

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Meanwhile, a giant harvest in Brazil made the price of dropping enough to make it a drink in the mass market. When he entered the house, the cultural revolution was unleashed.

Historian AV Venkatchakhachapaty writes that in the early 20th century, families in Tamil Nadu drank a non -governor or conjire, essentially an oxidic rice water. Conservative commentators have eliminated the rejection of this food drink for the immoral, probably unhealthy, new moonshine. The United States also has a rage for possible consequences for coffee health, and the dubious arguments and counter -assemblies that were played out in advertising. But too much used to the alertness presented by the morning cup.

Then, in the 1950s, the climate struck, the frost that destroys the Brazilian crop, causing the prices to take off coffee. From the ashes of this catastrophe, another option rose like Phoenix: Instant coffee, where the price, convenience and sophisticated advertising are combined with the victory over the taste. Now the tougher Coffea Canephora Aka Robusta has risen to fame despite its tougher aroma. A native of Africa, a higher yield, a higher harvest noted a new era, and the plant now destroys new geographies in Brazil, Uganda and Vietnam. Separately, in the 1960s, scientists began to develop new strains of Arabic. They can grow under sunlight, but it took a much greater fertilizer. It became a double rampage for the soil health.

Then the caffeine began to packed up. 350 ml Coca-Cola banks contain about 34 mg substance compared to a hefty 94 mg, which is provided by a regular coffee cup. Caffeine in non -alcoholic beverages once again overlapping the biochemistry of humanity.

The neurological and subcocaster Andrew Huberman calls the caffeine an amplifier. This does this, making dopamine schemes more effective in brain areas that make you feel vigilant and kind, calling you to give up the behaviors that accompany the shot of this substance.

For example, studies have shown that, especially in older adolescents, caffeine consumption is strongly associated with a decrease in sleep.

Now keep in mind that a lot of energy drinks today contain almost as much caffeine as a cup of coffee, and they are absorbed by teenagers deprived of sleep, scrolling thoughtlessly through the drums, not young adults at the beginning of the day. Imagine that the brain is rebuilt not to enlightenment, but to the thoughtless consumption of content intended to make technology companies more prosperous.

Meanwhile, the climate applies chaos at the factory. In many places, farmers need to go to the big height. Increasing the temperature and humidity level, meanwhile, tilt the balance in favor of pests, such as boron grain and coffee leaves. In 2015, the study found that, based on modern climatic forecasts, about half of the land used to produce coffee, until the 2050s it would be no longer suitable for the harvest.

As if to prove them correctly, the coffee crop has suffered in recent years in Vietnam, Brazil and Colombia, which led to record prices. Meanwhile, consumers are increasingly asking for fair trade and moonshine. This may be exactly what the doctor and the planet ordered. And India is well placed in favor of such a trend.

Keep track of this, in the following compromises.

(Mridula Ramesh-it’s Climate Investor and Climate Author

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