Manish Malhotra’s legacy is one that embraces universal adoration, so on his 57th birthday today, it seems only right to take a walk through his inimitable career spanning more than three decades. From revolutionizing the chiffon saree to some of the most iconic styles in global fashion history, the artist’s influence has always been beyond the runway. Here are all the trends pioneered, each redefining the fashion industry as we know it.
- The first ever shimmering chiffon saree was an MM original
While chiffon sarees have long been a symbol of timeless Indian elegance, it was Manish who made them sparkle with his sparkle – perhaps one of his most iconic creations. He first introduced this groundbreaking design in Rangel (1995), where Urmila’s shimmering black chiffon saree created a buzz in the fashion world.
Malhotra didn’t just add sequins to the fabric, he made them an integral part of Bollywood appeal. The classic appeal of the saree is still evident as seen on Bollywood red carpets – the latest example being Sabyasachi’s iteration of the MM piece worn by Kareena Kapoor at the Filmfare OTT Awards 2024
2. Bollywood’s most iconic costume designer
“I’m proud that I come from a film background and have been able to blend fashion and film seamlessly,” Malhotra told Vogue. With over 1,000 films to his name, he quickly became Bollywood’s premier designer, shaping the way we perceive iconic characters through their clothes. He was the inspiration behind some of the most iconic outfits of Bollywood actors of the 90s – he dressed Urmila for Rangela (1995), Karisma Kapoor for A king of Hindustan (1996) and the late Sridevi for Gumra (1993)
More recently, he also helped with costumes Rocky and Rani Kii Prem Kahani (2023), including Alia Bhatt’s flowing chiffon saris that stole the show. Another feather in his line of costume design was designing an embellished corset with a vintage dress for Jennifer Lopez’s Bridgerton-themed birthday party.
3. The first designer who brought celebrities to the catwalks
Before it became the norm, Manish was the first to bring the idea of celebrities to the runway. His first fashion show in 1995, again featuring Urmila, started what has become a staple at every high fashion event since. “The idea of celebrities stopping the show and the audience, which is the norm today, was started by me. But then I got beaten up for it, but today I can have the last laugh. It was never a strategic move,” he said. Most recently, National Crush Tripti Dimri and Kartik Aaryan graced its ramp in October.
4. The first designer who founded film production
In addition to his prowess in fashion, Malhotra is one of the few major Indian designers to have created a production house, STAGE5. In this project, he seamlessly combined his love of design and storytelling. One of the STAGE5 projects — Tiki Bun (2025) starring Shabana Azmi, Abhay Deol and Zeenat Aman is all set for its world premiere at the 36th Palm Springs International Film Festival next year. The production house is also behind other famous films like Tisca Chopra’s film Train from Chapraula as well as The characters of Ishq which will feature an ensemble cast with names like Vijay Varma, Fatima Sana Sheikh, Naseeruddin Shah and Sharib Hashmi.
While Malhotra’s background was in fashion, his ability to influence a film’s aesthetic extends beyond costume design. For example, in Sometimes there is happiness and sometimes there is sadness. (2001), Hrithik Roshan crowing over Kareena Kapoor’s mismatched shoes remains one of the most iconic moments in film history. Similarly, the transition of Kajol’s character in the Kuch Kuch Hota Hai (1998) from the tomboyish girl with the perm and shorts to the melodramatic sari and flowing hair was as compelling as the dialogue.
5. One of the only designers who have remained true to Indian craftsmanship
Most importantly, while many looked to the West for inspiration, Manish remained firmly rooted in India’s rich cultural and artisanal heritage. “Although my designs have evolved according to fashion trends, the essence remains the same. These pieces are not just clothes or accessories, they are stories and narratives that echo the timeless traditions of India, but speak a language that resonates with a global contemporary audience,” he told Grazia. His designs are an homage to the traditional, yet infused with a modern sensibility that speaks to the global woman. Even when designing for Hollywood sensations like Jennifer Aniston or Mindy Kaling, the designer has always focused on “combining Western sophistication with Indian craftsmanship.”
As he celebrates his 57th birthday, his influence continues to resonate in the worlds of fashion, film and culture.
