Some homeowners look out their windows and see lush and beautiful gardens. Others would like to see lush and beautiful gardens, but instead are met with overgrown, dead, or otherwise messy landscapes. Whether you inherited a neglected garden from a previous homeowner or were too busy to keep up with its upkeep, don’t despair: developing a game plan now can set you up for a much better look by next winter.
As with most seemingly hopeless tasks, breaking the process down into small steps that can be completed over time will help make the project manageable.
Decide what to remove
First, take a notebook and walk around the garden. Evaluate each section, determining which plants can be saved, which should be left, and which need attention. Make a list now. Dead and invasive plants, as well as weeds, should be the first to be cut. Weather permitting, dig them up, removing as much of the root system as possible. Otherwise, tackle it first in the spring.
Then remove and give away the healthy plants you don’t need. Online no-buy groups and neighborhood pages are great places to find takers. Many will even be willing to dig if it means getting a free plant. If the property has become overgrown with plants, bushes, trees and vines that have grown wild, a chainsaw, brush cutter or brush cutter may be required.
Define any new beds
If you’re dealing with a lot of weeds or want to create new beds in your lawn, you can smother the existing vegetation instead of digging it up. Determine the shape and size of the bed or border and cover the area with cardboard or thick layers of newspaper. This can be done now by covering with 3 inches of compost and 2 inches of mulch and left over winter. It can also wait until boarding time.
When you’re ready to plant, you’ll cut root-sized holes in the cardboard for your plants. Most weeds will be killed, but some may creep in and need to be pulled or more cardboard added.
How and when to cut
Healthy but overgrown or unproductive deciduous shrubs (the types that lose their leaves) can be rejuvenated by pruning. Do this when the branches are bare in late winter. Choosing a method will require balancing aesthetics with rebound time and deciding which one is right for you. The quickest (but most serious) way would be to cut the entire plant just above ground level. It’s scary, but most bushes can handle it and bounce back stronger.
If maintaining height in the garden is important, you can cut each branch or stem separately at uneven heights. Or prune one-third of the plant’s branches each year for three years. The latter will have the least drastic effect, but requires more patience.
Evergreen trees and shrubs should only be subject to selective pruning (shortening of individual branches). Take care to avoid excessive pruning or creating holes in coniferous evergreens and trees; except for yews, they will not be filled.
Looking at the dirt
Now that you have a clean canvas, turn your attention to the soil. Check the pH of the soil to make sure it is within the range for the plants you plan to add. Test kits are available at local and online garden supply stores. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can provide advice on soil testing and amendment for a nominal fee.
If necessary, add lime or elemental sulfur to the soil to raise or lower its pH, following package directions. If the soil is firm and compacted, use an aerator rod or long-handled garden fork to make 2- to 3-inch holes through which air and water can flow. Finally, spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure over the area. As it decomposes, nutrients will make their way into the soil.
Landing considerations
After completing the above steps, it will be time to plant your new garden. If you’re not ready to plant by summer, mulch or use annuals to protect bare soil. When you’re ready to plant new trees, shrubs, and/or perennials, be careful to choose varieties that won’t sprawl.
Dig holes the same depth as their roots but twice as wide and space them accordingly to accommodate their adult size. For minimal future maintenance, consider hardy, pollinator-friendly, and drought-tolerant native plants.
Incorporate non-invasive ground cover plants into beds to serve as natural mulch and discourage weeds – remember, if you don’t plant something in bare spots, God will. While you wait for the ground cover plants to fill in, apply 2-3 inches of mulch between and around the plants to help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, maintain an even soil temperature, and protect the delicate roots.
It may take a year or two – or more, depending on your schedule and ability – but a step-by-step approach will avoid overwhelm and provide a steady stream of small wins as you get closer to your goal.
